Middlethorpe Hall & Spa

Only one-and-a-half miles from central York – an eight-minute taxi-ride from the station – yet the hotel feels in the country, surrounded by gardens and parkland, and with a farm and cottages as neighbours. Handily, there's a bus-stop on the main road so you can do the city’s shops and sights then retreat from the tourist hustle. York Racecourse is just across the road. The drawback is that it sits between two busy roads so traffic noise is inevitable.

A classic William and Mary country house – mellow brick, limestone dressings, pleasingly symmetrical – it was built at the turn of the 18th century for a Yorkshire ironworks-owner. Now part of the Historic Houses Hotel group, and given to the National Trust in 2008, its style is faithful to its period: polished antiques, soft colours, florals and stripes, elegant sofas, oil portraits and vases of flowers set against original features of wood-panelling, carved door cases and shuttered sash windows. The stable block – charming with herringbone-brick courtyard – has been converted to provide additional bedrooms.

Expect all the classic country-house-hotel facilities but with a level of charm and warmth that comes from being a smaller operation than many of the well-known names. Two Edwardian cottages have been converted into a small spa, with indoor pool; a gym is tucked inside a Victorian summer-house. A flagstone terrace overlooks 20 acres of grounds – including a walled garden, parkland and small lake – as does the drawing-room; one of several sitting-rooms, all heaped with newspapers and magazines. Staff pop up when you need them and nicely balance professionalism with friendliness, and happily advise or arrange days' out. Dogs are welcome in certain rooms at no extra charge.

The 29 rooms – 10 in the main house, the rest in the former stable block and cottages – are country-house at its best: confidently traditional, not over-fussy, and full of thoughtful touches. With genuine antiques, softly patterned wallpapers and curtains, blankets and eiderdowns, pretty little armchairs and old-fashioned dressing-tables, they feel like the guest bedroom of a well-heeled friend's house in the country. Some have window-seats, all have books, fresh flowers, fruit and homemade biscuits. Bathrooms are small (though well-lit and well thought-through); other than that, these rooms are hard to fault.

Dining is an occasion, and well-padded wallets are needed. Dinner starts with canapés in the drawing room before moving to the wood-panelled, candle-lit dining-room and a choice of taster menu (£75), fixed-price (£45, three courses) or à la carte (mains around £30). Classic British dishes are given inventive twists – roast duck with sauerkraut, poached brill with brown shrimp tortellini, fillet of beef with smoked bone marrow. It’s clever without being tricksy, and beautifully balanced. The hefty wine list has copious tasting notes, around 40 clarets alone, and little under £30. If you’ve room, afternoon tea is elegantly sumptuous, and £27.50.

Breakfast is relatively modest: a simple cold buffet followed by cooked items including poached haddock and a full English. 

Double rooms from £149 in low season; and from £219 in high. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi.

There is one fully adapted room and the ground floor is accessible.

The hotel welcomes children aged six and over; extra beds cost £45 including breakfast. There are two family suites and menus can be adapted for children.